Sunday, 14 April 2013

"Turning" Heads and the Sherlock Hundred

14th April

Sometimes the advantages of being in a huge landmass with a population smaller than the City of Leicester, become apparent. Spent our last morning in Adelaide at the Turner art exhibition. This was the exhibition that had been in London a year or so ago which we'd missed so we pitched up at the art gallery expecting to join a huge queue. We still bear the scars from the last major art exhibition we attended (Monet in Paris) which was unbearably overcrowded and hardly gave room to see the pictures. 

How fantastic then that we were able to waltz straight in when the art gallery opened, no queues and we were able to walk round the amazing collection of Turner paintings at our own pace. Fabulous! 


South Australia Art Gallery, Adelaide

From our limited time in Adelaide it appears that it's a lovely City. Wide tree lined streets, some interesting "old" buildings and clean and tidy both in the City and the suburbs. Great shopping too but we didn't have time to investigate that!

Museum of South Australia, Adelaide

Wide, tree lined streets in the Centre


Yesterday we spent the day in the Borossa Valley, about an hour North of Adelaide. Very attractive area with more wineries to the square inch than we've ever seen! As we were driving we only went to one wine tasting but it would be very easy to get legless here every day of the week. 

We decided to go to the Jacobs Creek winery. Mostly because it's a wine that we can buy in the UK but one that we normally dismiss! Having tasted a good selection of whites and reds we were favourably impressed with several and will look out for them in Tesco. Also visited a lavender farm which would have been more impressive earlier in the season (it's autumn here) but still smelt lovely, a sculpture park and a farm shop run by an Aussie TV Chef, Maggie Beer as well as some of the little villages. Great place for a leisurely mooch.

View over Barossa Valley, North of Adelaide

Set off on the 750+ kilometre trek back to Melbourne this afternoon. We couldn't resist a slight detour to visit the metropolis of Sherlock! This tiny hamlet has an important place in the history of the area. The Sherlock Hundred was created in 1899, named after a mate of the local Governor. It even had it's own railway station with station master in the early 20th Century when its pioneering occupants scraped a living from felling timbers for the new railway. 
Welcome to Sherlock, South Australia





A bit of history

Saturday, 13 April 2013

Turton Track, huge trees, pancakes and miles to go before we sleep!

April 9 - 13th
Mike's ancestors have obviously been here us as just up the road from Gwyn and Di's house at Tanybryn, is a small road named "Turton's track". Very much a single track road, it has been metalled since our last visit and is a now a recognised (if rather slow and twisty) route. So far we've failed to find any of it's history so if any readers can shed light, we'd be pleased to hear!





The scale of everything in Australia is immense. In this area of Victoria, there are lots and lots of trees, many of them huge. Went for a walk around "Maits Rest" where there are hundreds of huge trees, many of them Myrtle Beech. Photos don't really give a true sense of scale or the beauty of the flora and fauna.
These can grow up to 100 metres high and some are up to 400 years old

Gives some sense of scale
Very Lord of the Rings!

When planning our travels, we're often caught out by the vast distances and time taken to drive them. We drove from Melbourne to Adelaide this week. Nearly 800 kilometres and took about three days with stops. Much of the journey was across vast areas of flat plain. Mike has dubbed these roads the "pancakes" because they are very brown and arid and boring as there's little of interest (and have no maple syrup on them!) Pretty boring driving but one of us has to be on "Roo alert" as kangaroos and various other wildlife have a habit of running out into the road when least expected. Unfortunately we've seen many more dead Kangaroos by the road side than live ones. However this week we have seen dolphins (by the ferry), kangaroos, wallabies, Emu's and some fabulously coloured parrots. Cockatoos are everywhere and certainly make their presence felt. They are very noisy! Less welcome was our close encounter with a Tiger snake. Luckily it slithered away quickly.
Tiger snake. Poisonous of course!

Emu strutting his stuff

Parrots waiting for breakfast at Gwyn's. The male ones have the red breasts

One of the Wonders of the World!

Twelve Apostles, Great Ocean road, Victoria

One potential problem with being a tourist for a long period, is that it is easy to get blasé about things you're visiting. However anyone not being amazed by the 12 Apostles should be shot!

The Great Ocean road is full of twists and turns but that first sighting of some of these spectacular rocks sticking out of the sea, is enough to make the senses tingle. 

 The Twelve Apostles is a collection of limestone stacks that sit just off shore near Port Campbell. The apostles were formed by erosion. The harsh weather conditions from the Southern Ocean gradually eroded the soft limestone to form caves in the cliffs, which then became arches, which in turn collapsed; leaving rock stacks up to 45 metres high. Apparently despite their name, there were only ever nine stacks and there are about eight left now. 

For those of us more interested in aesthetics than geology,  this is a magical collection of interestingly shaped structures whose sandy colour is in beautiful contract to the blue sea. The following pictures will give you some idea of the beauty of this place but it is a must see on everyone's travel list. Definitely a four star WOW on our Wowometer!


Two of the remaining 8 Apostles

Magnificent structures but they are eroding
 

This couple get everywhere!


Wild Dog in the dark!

7th -10th April Great Ocean Road

We've navigated some pretty windy roads on this trip, mainly in New Zealand but pretty much all have been in the light. Tackling the Great Ocean Road from Melbourne to Apollo Bay and the tiny unsealed roads off it to Tanybryn in the dark, the last 10 kilometres or so with with a sat nav. that had lost its way and no mobile reception, was a new challenge!

The Great Ocean Road is a spectacular piece of highway with lots of tight corners and, in daylight, some great views of the coast. Definitely a candidate for a Top Gear drive challenge! We negotiated the necessary section of the Great Ocean road pretty easily but then turned off onto Wild Dog Creek road. It would however be fair to say that this road is not what you'd call a major highway. It weaves in and out of dense bush, often with huge trees looming over the road, no street lights or road markings and mostly unsealed on the bit that we travelled. As soon as we'd turned into the road the mobile signal disappeared and the sat nav had a paddy! Were we worried? Well we both put a brave face on it but were mighty glad to finally reach our destination!

We received a very warm welcome from Gwyn and Di, two long term exiles from the UK. Since we saw them in 2009, they've completely rebuilt their house and mighty fine it is too. Very spacious and comfortable. 

Di and Gwyn's home, Tanybryn

View from the garden. Such a beautiful spot

Di and Gwyn with Cameron and Zac, their grandkids and Harvey the dog

Wednesday, 10 April 2013

Easter Aussie style

March 31st to 7th April 2013

Apologies to those readers who've noticed that it's been a little while since our last post! Internet access has been somewhat intermittent since our arrival and of course, we've been enjoying our holiday.

Spent  our first week in Australia in the beautiful Mornington Peninsular area, about 2 hours south of Melbourne. Imagine golden sandy beaches, lots of interesting little shops, cafĂ©'s and restaurants and loads of wineries and you'll understand how tough this was! We were lucky enough to stay very close to Mornington town centre and just across the road from the beach in a beautiful beach house with views across the water. 

The house, yards from beach and minutes from town centre
Early morning view from balcony






 
Mornington Beach









We visited art galleries, glass studios, wineries and The McClelland Gallery, a fabulous sculpture and art gallery. This was the Murdoch empire at it's best. Rupert's late mother was a major benefactor of this wonderful facility. Every two years the gallery runs a competition for a new piece of external sculpture that will be sustainable for the long term. The £100k prize is hard fought for and we viewed the final 36 so pieces that had been short listed. Amazingly diverse and so many were so clever! A few of our favourites are shown below





You try high jumping a boulder!

Not quite origami

See, yoga can work



You'd never have guessed!

So passionate



Made from real trees
Boy looking down

Our favourite. This one makes music when approached by onlookers





The winner (photo doesn't do it justice)
Thanks To Terry and Tina for letting us stay in their beautiful home

Tips! Go early if you're visiting any of the markets around the Peninsular, they get very crowded. If heading for the Great Ocean rd, catch the ferry from Sorrento to Queensville.

Friday, 5 April 2013

Farewell to New Zealand!

 22nd to 27th March

Our last few days in New Zealand were spent in the excellent company of Jo and Bruce Blomfield around the Auckland area. 

In the last few days we went to the pretty seaside area of Devonport which has great views across to Auckland City.  


Some of the older buildings in Devonport



Views from Mount Victoria



A huge Moreton Bay Fig Tree
     
    Modern transport in Devonport




 Jo and Bruce (Blom) are justifiably proud of their new granddaughter, Elliott Kay. She and parents Ian and Tamara are all doing well. 
Elliott aged less than 7 days with proud grandparents, Jo and Blom

Elliott sizing up Jo!

 

Even after two months, there are still plenty of things that we hadn't seen. Our last couple of trips included a visit to the Auckland botanical gardens. Given the hot summer this was a good lesson in which plants do best in dry, arid conditions. These gardens cover a huge area of prime real estate yet are free and also provide great spot for a picnic. We were serenaded by some locals whose singing would be a credit to Cardiff Arms Park!






Did worry about Mike during this visit as he was rather taken by a lady with a  large beak!
Mike and his new woman!

Little worried about her legs!


Stompy woman!!

Also went to the Awhitu Peninsula. In the regional park Blom tried hard to lose us, deserting Jo, Mike and me on some flimsy pretext, leaving us to find our way across some ill defined paths! Fortunately we found our way and managed to meet up with Blom as well.

We've had a truly fabulous time in New Zealand. We've seen some amazing sights and met some fantastic people. We've learnt quite a lot about Mike's Culy relatives and received wonderful hospitality that we hope to repay soon. Farewell and thank you. We hope to be back!

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

Reflections on living like a snail




31st March 2013

45 or so days on we’ve given up our cosy camper van and set off for pastures new, across the Tasman Sea. Before we get there here’s some thoughts on our snail like existence over the past few weeks.

Snails not slugs. Let’s get one thing straight first. There are those that refer to camper vans as “slugs”.  We think snails is a better description as like the snail, we’ve carried our house with us and being “responsible campers” we haven’t left trails of slimy stuff behind us! Our van also had a 3 litre engine and certainly kept up a good speed.  

Adapting to a small space. Living in a camper van is basically posh camping. Space is limited, though there were more cupboards and hidey holes than we’d expected. There was even room for a reasonable wine cellar to accommodate the fruits of our winery visits.  
We quickly learnt that we had to be relatively tidy and to adopt a routine that meant that we could make best use of the space and the facilities offered on the camp sites. The van had a wet room with loo and shower but after using the latter once, we realised that it was much better to use the “ablutions” on site. The loo was mostly used at night to avoid unseemly dashes in the cold! 

The Camper Van Dance Step. If you spend much time in a camper van you quickly develop a new sort of dance move. Depending on the build and number of occupants it involves breathing in, twisting and shuffling so that the two of you can pass each other in a confined space. We perfected this move at meal times when cooking facilities, fridge, crockery and cutlery were all in the same small space at one end of the van. Useful therefore if you are fairly intimate with your travel companions at the start, because you will be by the end of your journey!

Solo jobs. Bedtime was always fun in the van.  (Don’t worry this isn’t going to get too personal)! Making up the bed involved a fair amount of crawling around and we quickly worked out that it was better done by just one of us. Dismantling it the next morning was also a one person job but much easier. 

Comfort and convenience. Despite our fears, the van was pretty comfortable with good driving and passenger seats and a firm bed in which we slept well. When driving you sit up high which gives a great view of the awesome scenery we travelled through. Overall there’s an enormous advantage in being able to move around at your own pace and not having to unpack at each new venue.

Rating the Camp Sites. Camp sites in NZ are rated by “Qualmark” who use a star system between 1 and 5. We quickly devised our own assessment system which sometimes differed from the official version. Most important (to us anyway) was the quality of the loos and showers. Cleanliness and design differed quite markedly even on sites with the same rating. All had the basics such as hot water and individual shower cubicles but the design of these made such a difference. In case you think us picky bear in mind is that we had to dress in the van, then undress in the shower cubicle, shower and get dressed again so the number of hooks for clothes, ability to keep clothes and feet dry while dressing and whether there was a basket for shampoo and other paraphernalia in the shower took on an importance probably not appreciated by the official rating agency. Certainly far more importance than whether or not there was a “spa” (hot tub) and bouncy cushion for the kids.
What else made a difference? Helpful and knowledgeable staff, good internet access (we needed to keep our readers up to date!)  and sensibly designed water and dump facilities. For those new to van camping, the latter is where you empty the grey water and nasties from the loo. Some were amazingly inaccessible! 

The winner is. Not surprisingly then our favourite site was that at Franz Joseph which had pretty much everything. Fantastic views over the glacier, great staff, good internet and at a block of individual bathrooms, each with their own shower and toilet! Heaven! We stayed 3 nights it was so good!

The not so good bits. Of course we were novices at this camping lark and not everything went well. Twice we set off only to be met by flashing lights and horns from other campers (luckily while were still on site) which we eventually realised meant that we’d forgotten to unplug the electricity cable before setting off and were trailing a tell-tale orange lead behind us!
On another occasion we’d stopped in the middle of nowhere for lunch. When we backed out of this very rural site we were somewhat startled by a bang! Turned out to be a badly placed rock that had leapt up and made a nasty dent in our rear bumper. Turned out to be an expensive lunch as it cost us our insurance excess
And then there was there was the temporary blindness in Wellington which meant that we didn’t spot the sign on the parking metre saying that it was suspended. So not only did we pay $8 to park for 2 hours but a further $40 parking fine! In our defence it was raining pretty hard and we’d never been to Wellington before. 

All in all, our camper van experience was a good one and we'd recommend it when exploring large areas such as NZ.