Celebrations and some rather forgettable golf!

June 11th -12th

11th June was our second wedding anniversary and also marks nearly 18 years of a very happy relationship. We had a lovely day snorkeling and relaxing in the sea. 

 Ever prepared we'd also bought a couple of anniversary pressies as we saw spotted them on our travels. There's a definite animal theme!

Our wonderful red eyed, orange bellied frog

A beautiful Gecko decorated with paua shell

The bakery did us proud, producing a special dairy free delicious cake and we went to our favourite restaurant in the evening, the Vaima, in the evening. The restaurant doesn't look like much from the outside but inside it's simply but nicely done with tables right down to the beach. As it turned out it was a wet and blowy night so we ate inside but replaced the bright clusters of stars with our own indoor sparklers!

Anniversary celebrations

The Vaima is another good example of the laid back approach and willingness to accommodate customer wishes. Back in February at our first wine tasting tour we'd  bought a good bottle of NZ champagne which we'd managed to carry intact through the past 4 months of travel. The restaurant was happy to let us drink it with our meal for a reasonable corkage fee. Suspect we'd have got a different reaction in most English restaurants!

So a magical day and then we came back to earth with a bump! It poured with rain this morning and was cloudy when it stopped so we decided to go and play golf thinking that it would be cooler. Oh no! As soon as we got on the course the sun came out and we roasted! That and the borrowed clubs (in Maggie's case she was playing with Men's clubs) and the very confusing layout of the course were all very good reasons why we didn't score our rather dismal performance. However we need the practice! Don't think the club will be inviting us to join any time soon.

Chilling out in Cook Islands Paradise

June sometime, 2013 we think!

Getting used to this staying in  one place lark. We are in the Cook Islands in our delightful bungalow near the sea for 14 days. That's the longest we've stayed anywhere since we left home in January!It's made us recall two week holidays from the past where the first week seems to go on for ever but the second week just gallops away. 

But then we've been busy. Every day brings a new challenge.  Do we need to go to the delightful bakery three doors down to get some of their splendid bread? Do we cook dinner or go out? If we cook do we eat indoors or outdoors? Should we go to the local beach (about 3 minutes slow walk away) or another one? Do we swim, snorkel, walk or lie on the beach/sunbed first?

So a really taxing time here in Paradise! We have been exploring the island too, popping into a number of little art and craft and clothing shops. Lots of beautifully coloured fabrics which reflect the positivity here in the Cook Islands. Most local people go around with a big smile on their face which in turn makes us all smile. 

We have of course been spending a lot of time with our heads down in the gorgeous azure sea. 
 

Live Coral is abundant here

 

A blue starfish

 Snorkeling is so easy here as you can walk off the beach and wade out to coral and fish or at higher tide, catch a water taxi, paddle a kayak or take a treddlecat. The latter are an excellent example of a barman with imagination. Designed, built and constantly refined locally they are a cross between a pedalo and a catamaran. They range in size from a twosome to a larger family unit and depending on how fast you peddle, they can get up quite a decent speed! We easily navigated our way out to and around the neighbouring islands on one. More practical for snorkeling than a kayak as they have an anchor so you can anchor up and go swimming for a while. 

The treddlecat Swift

 The attitude amongst locals here is summed up by this notice:

Fantastic attitude!

Our local beach, Muri, has a large lagoon which is surrounded by a reef. The lagoon is generally very calm and often very shallow while large waves can be seen breaking over the reef.

Top end of Muri beach. Our favourite!

Boating within the lagoon

Large waves breaking over the reef

The weather here has generally been very good but like any tropical climate it can change very quickly. When we were out on our treddlecat, we had bright sunshine, cloud and even a rainbow!

A rainbow over the reef

One of the joys of Roatonga is it's lack of commerciality. Of course tourism is hugely important to its economy but it's all local and generally small businesses. No buildings are allowed to be above Palm Tree height (mind you we have seen some pretty tall palms) and the nearest McDonald's is more than 2,800 kms away!

 Highly recommended!

Cooks, Chickens and Coconuts

2nd to 7th June 2013

Set off from Sydney on Saturday evening, flew for about 6 hours and arrived in the Cook Islands about 7am on Saturday. Crossed the international date line so for the first time we've gone back in time and are now some eleven hours behind the UK instead of 9 hours or so in front. Would be very confusing except that by now we have very little idea what day it is anyway!

We're in Rarotonga (known locally as Raro), the largest of the fifteen small but beautifully formed islands scattered around some 2 million square kilometres in the South Pacific Ocean. The islands lie in the centre of the Polynesian Triangle just to the West of Tahiti and the islands of French Polynesia.

Migration to the islands by the Maori ancestors started in Raro about 800 AD but things really took off with Captain Cook's voyage around 1773 and the later Mutiny of the Bounty when Fletcher Christian sailed into Raro having commandeered Captain Bligh's boat.

Today Raro is an interesting looking island with mountains in its centre. The highest, Te Manga is 658 metres so a reasonable size bump. The coastal road around the island is only about 32 kilometres and it takes about 50 minutes for the bus to do the whole journey depending how many stops it makes! There are two buses on the island and the route is so logical. One travels clockwise, the other anti clockwise so if you miss one you can just hail the other and while your journey may take a bit longer, it doesn't matter because the drivers provide in house entertainment along the journey pointing out places of interest and making jokes! No worries about bus stops here.There are some bus stops but basically you just hail the bus and it stops. So different to Sydney where the bus driver refused to hang on for an old lady who couldn't get to the stop in time. But then life here has a very leisurely pace and it's wonderful!

In Australia we had kangaroos in the front garden, here we have chickens and roosters. The chickens are allowed to roam free and they are accompanied by lots of very cute chicks and several very handsome roosters. Those of you who've been to our home in Cyprus will be used to early morning rooster calls so this is very reminiscent of that! (Mike's cousin Stan was quick to name the  rooster next door to us in Cyprus, Lenin, hence the oft repeated phrase "shut up Lenin"!) Just like Cyprus they can't tell the time so they crow all day. The chickens and their amours keep us highly amused as they dash around everyone's gardens in search of food. They have no respect for property or people and the local cafe's all have warning signs advising against feeding them.

Chickens and friends in the garden

Such a handsome chap!

A baby chuk

Had a BBQ one evening with our hosts and some of the other guests. Interesting insight into local  issues including the importance of coconuts. The palm trees here are full of them and one of the conditions of car hire here is that you can't park under a coconut tree because of the risk of damage! Coconuts are used for everything from food (cream etc), fishing floats, thatching, bras for local ladies, as a fire lighter, fodder for coconut crabs, as a sweet (a bit like a marshmallow) and as sun tan cream! How sustainable is that from one rather ugly looking fruit. 

The sea here is a lovely azure blue with a reef off the main lagoon. There were high winds for the first couple  of days that we were here so quite big waves but all out beyond the reef. Thankfully things have calmed down in the last few  days and we've been able to swim and snorkel in the lagoon. At low tide you can walk almost over to the island opposite and the snorkeling is quite good with live coral and a reasonable collection of fish. There are an enormous number of dark coloured sea cucumbers on the sea bed which are exposed at low tide so we've nicknamed the walk out the "turds passage". The coral covers much of the sea bed so reef shoes were an early purchase. So we look really elegant as we walk along the soft sandy beach in our swimmers and reef shoes!

Coral waters at Muri Beach

Muri Beach and one of those all important Palm Trees

People are so friendly and helpful here, perhaps because life is lived at a slower pace. On arrival we were a bit nervous going through customs as we'd had to declare several things such as powdered goats milk.  "No worries" says the Customs Guy "as long as you're not carrying meat it's fine. Have a good holiday". On our first bus trip the driver asked if anyone was in a hurry as if so we'd be on the wrong island! 

Nevertheless even the Cook Islands have some issues. The population (around 9,000) is dwindling as many young people leave in search of more money and better opportunities elsewhere. Land issues are complicated as hereditary land is often leased back to the owner on a 60 year lease and many people can't afford to buy out the lease at the end of the term. The minimum wage here is around $5 per hour but several religious sects such as the 7th day Adventists bring in workers from Tahiti and Fiji and pay them as little as $2 per hour. Such sects are often strong commercial organisations and run several up market tourist hotels. Nasties brought in from elsewhere such as the fruit diseases can threaten the finely balanced economy.

And of course the Islands are subject to nature's whims such as high winds which prevent the fishing boats going out and cyclones. Not that long ago they had five significant cyclones in one year.  Creating and retaining Paradise is harder than you think!

Romeo and Juliet Aussie style

June 1st 2013

Don't you just hate the last day somewhere? Amazingly we'd come to the end of our two months in Australia and had an evening flight booked to the Cook Islands so rather than hang around and waste the day we got up early and drove up to the Blue Mountains. We didn't have much time but managed to avoid what we call an Indian style tour of the area. This refers back to a bus tour in Goa that we once went on where there was a very strict timetable and the emphasis was definitely on packing as much in as possible rather than any aesthetic appreciation of the sights!

The Blue Mountains are quite big humps for Australia - over 1,000 meters in places and quite dramatic. In the limited time available we just went to the major sights, starting with the Wentworth Falls.  The sign above the path says that there are many steps to the falls. That was certainly true! No need to go to the gym after that. 

Wentworth Falls in the Blue Mountains

From there we went on to the Three Sisters. Of course there's a geological explanation for this trio of ragged rocks but I prefer the Romeo and Juliet version i.e. three sisters fancied three brothers from another tribe but of course, as they were from opposing tribes, like the Montagues and Capulets, they were not supposed to mix. However testosterone got the better of the men and they decided to force themselves on the sisters. This sparked a riot between the two tribes and the local "clever man" from the Sisters tribe decided to freeze the ladies with the intention of unfreezing them once the strife was over. Unfortunately the clever man got killed in the troubles and no one since has worked out a way to unfreeze the Sisters so there they stand, proud and tall amongst the blue mountains!

The Three Sisters - a geological formation or a tale of woe!

The Three Sisters in situ in the Blue Mountains

Had a very pleasant lunch at a deli in the mountain village of Leura. It's fair to say that most of the towns and villages we've visited in Australasia are not pretty in the way that many European places are. Leura is an exception to this. It's main street is attractive and full of interesting independent shops, all set in very pretty semi rural surroundings. Unusually for Australia where many trees are evergreen, there's a good selection of deciduous trees around this area many of which were turning beautiful shades of brown and red with the onset of winter. One of the shops had a fabulous collection of glassware (as well as all sorts of other nice things). A red eyed frog similar to the ones we'd seen in South Mission beach caught our attention and was added to our already heavty luggage collection!

Finished our quick tour of the Blue Mountains at Govetts Leap near Blackheath. Here and at the Three Sisters, you get a real appreciation of why these hills are so named. Even on a cloudy day, there's a distinctive blue hue that comes off the mountains contrasting well with the sandstone coloured rocks. 

Govett's Leap

The Blue Mountains

One of the great things about having no set agendas for days like this is that you often happen across interesting places and people. At Govett's Leap we followed an intriguing "frog poster" and popped into an exhibition by a local artist. Had we not already been tempted by a frog with attitude we might have bought a print!

Similarly when we stopped for a cup of tea on the way home, we came across a really nice cafe cum local art gallery "Loviz Art" near Springwood with a collection of art and vintage clothing and bits and pieces. Great tea and coffee and so much more fun than Starbucks!

Just a couple of Loviz pictures that sum up our trip and the artist's sense of humour!

A Golden Voyage by Tanya Loviz (spot the dolphins)

 

Come Fly with Me (to celebrate the Blue Mountains Bicentenary Fly Over)

By the end of the day it had started to rain so it seemed a good time to head for the airport and start the next phase of our adventures. Four months into the trip we said farewell to Australasia. We've had a fabulous time and seen some amazing sights. However our best memories will always be about the extended family and friends that we've met on our travels some for for the first time, others renewing former friendships. We hope to return but will be keeping in touch in the meantime. 

Sunny Sydney!

28th - 31st May 2013 

Spent an enjoyable few days in this interesting city. Weather's been perfect for sight seeing. Early 20's and sunny. 

Sydney, in common with most of the state capitals here in Australia, has the  benefit of a large natural harbour and it certainly makes the most of it. We've been staying in an apartment within walking distance of Darling Harbour and have made good use of the fantastic ferry service to get around, as well as the buses and trains. For a small price you can use the ferries to navigate around the City and to get great views of the many memorable buildings in this part of town. We've been to Sydney before but the first view of the Harbour Bridge and Opera House are still breath taking. 

The unmistakeable Opera House

So sunny, it was difficult to take pictures but the Harbour Bridge is there somewhere

And the Opera House too!

There it is, in side view

A City full of tall buildings

We walked from the Opera House up around the headland to Mrs Macquarie's Chair, in the Botanic Gardens.  This is an exposed sandstone rock cut into the shape of a bench. Mrs M was the wife of the Governor of New South Wales in the early 19th Century and was quite a formidable character. As well as the Chair in which she supposedly used to sit and watch for English ships, she managed to getting a three mile stretch of road built to the port that was then named after her! 

Intrepid travelers brave the Chair!

Our visit coincided with the "Vivid" light show in Darling Harbour and Circular Quay. Each evening for a couple of weeks buildings are lit up, dramatic light shows put on and there's a great light, water and music show in Darling Harbour. Lots of interesting effects! We spent several "happy hours" (always keen to minimise the spend!) having a drink by the water and watching the lights. 

Lights projected onto the Opera House

Harbour lights without Vivid

Harbour lights with Vivid

Rather spooky looking light displays!

Sydney has some fantastic public spaces and those around the Harbours' include lots of unusual water features. This one appealed to Mike's engineering brain!

 

We stayed near Chinatown and really enjoyed wondering through the maze of eateries. Pretty much all Asian cuisines were available including Chinese, Japanese, Malaysian and Vietnamese. No need to go hungry! Another delight was the fruit and veg. and fish markets which were just a few minutes walk from our apartment. All sorts of fruit and veg including some of the exotic ones we'd tasted in Daintree and the fish selection was superb! Definitely the place to shop if you live in Sydney.

Shopping in Sydney is also never a problem! As well as the usual collection of International stores there was an an eclectic mix of independent shops. Some  beautiful older buildings too. One of our favourites is the Queen Victoria Building (QVB), once a market and now an up market shopping mall. It has an amazing array of clocks including the one below which has a ship that whizzes around the clock!

Fab clock in QVB

 S

Stained glass windows in QVB

We ventured beyond the shiny and new bit of central Sydney and went to Newtown, one of the suburbs. This was a bit run down and a bit "alternative" with lots of interesting shops, cinemas and so on. But it felt more real somehow than the bits you often get to see as a tourist. But as ever, Sydney is a City full of contrasts. We went on the ferry trip up the river and from that viewed some very opulent river side properties which looked somewhat more desirable than the shabby homes and buildings which back onto the railway heading out of town.

Lots we didn't see and do but walked our socks off. Thoroughly enjoyable few days! 

Sunset over the river

Farewell Queensland!

27 - 28 May 2013

Sadly we've come to an end of our time in Port Douglas and in North Queensland. We had a memorable  time. We'll never forget our trip to the Barrier Reef and to Daintree rainforest but Port Douglas itself is a lovely town. 

In the last few days we enjoyed some excellent sea food. On two days we had fresh prawns straight off the fishing boats. Delicious and such good value! Also had an excellent seafood meal at a local restaurant and bar called "On the Inlet". One way and another we spent quite a lot of time at this place. Each day at about 5pm they try to tempt a huge grouper called George up to the surface for the admiring crowds. Depending on what literature you read, George weighs between 250 and 650 kilos!! Of course to get a good spot, you have to be there by about 4.15pm so we tested quite a lot of their beer and cider! Unfortunately George was a little shy the week we were there and only once did we catch a glimpse of him and the camera wasn't fast enough to take a photo. 

Expectant crowd waiting for George

Given the dangers that lurk in the sea, pools are important over here. Here's the one that was right outside our apartment at Mantra Port Sea.

Just when you thought it safe to swim!

 Spent a day in Cairns on our way back. To be honest Cairns is nothing special, you may as well just head further North where the beaches are great and the reef and rainforest are much closer. Did go to the botanical gardens which are quite nice and had a pleasant walk along the Esplanade. The Aussies spend a lot on these sort of walks with really good public amenities such as children's playgrounds, open air exercise stations (who needs a gym?), fountains and so on. Just as well as the sea goes out for miles so when the tide's out it's a bit like Blackpool beach!

A lasting memory of Northern Queensland will be the beautiful flowers and foliage, such bright colours and so large thanks to plentiful sun and rain.One of our favourites are the "Lipstick Palms" which have lovely red stalks. 

Lipstick Palms